After meridian flip - flip photo?


I just added a rotator and really like it so far. My question, last night I did a meridian flip then it does a plate solve and centers and continues. My subs are still flipped? Shouldn’t the rotation flip after a meridian flip?

Or - what can I do to make all my image orient the same way short of doing a 180 rotation in PI manually one by one? Is there such a flip after meridian option in SGP? (could their be one added?)


Don’t own a rotator, so can’t help you here. Not sure if SGP can/should automagically rotate the camera after a flip…but…

You shouldn’t need to.

When you register the frames, PI will automatically rotate any flipped frames to the same orientation as the reference frame.

If you happen to select a flipped frame for reference (based perhaps on weight or SNR or whatever), then whenever the integration is done, just rotate that one image, and bam…done.


This has all come up before - look in help files or search the forum! I am sure all the information you need is there if you look.



The only drawback I see about rotating after the flip is you will need to take two sets of flats, one set before and other set after rotation. To make your life a little easier is not to rotate the camera after the flip and only one set of flats is needed and let PixInsight auto magically align the subs during star alignment.

Do you take flats before flipping? Because if you don’t, you may have calibration issues with the lights.

Most people buy rotators for accurate framing of objects to your liking.



Thanks - I know star align flips - but I like to look at them all in blink and hate them jumping around.
I just through it would be easy. I also don’t use flats. (I rely on good clean living) :wink:
I’ll live with doing it the same. But I also like to review and compare them in windows as extra large thumbs for quick and easy deletion of what I consider sub par.
Hey while I got ya here - is there a way to change the sort in PI so that when it lists frames it lists them as (taken/time?) rather than name? I hate that it throws frame 2 with frame 20 and 3 with 30. Again this screws up the order making it hard to delete “5” because a cloud passed for those 5 - because they might be scattered through out.

cheers - here is the first plate of a 4 panel mosaic I’m doing.


As has been said you need to rotate the imager by 180 degrees when the meridin flip is done.

But I wouldn’t. As has been said you will need a new set of flats. It’s less effort to rotate the images in software after the event.

If I was getting images like that I wouldn’t change a thing, not even my socks :slight_smile:


hahaha Thanks Chris and I read that with a English accent as well. = ) The images are easy - I’m always trying to make the post process QUICKER AND LESS PAINFUL! 95% of this image found me in bed sleeping. = )


Why not put “Taken Time” at the appropriate place in the filename? :slight_smile:

Maybe something like :


To give


Then you can toss frame number or whatever you want later on.


Set the “Always” option under the Target Settings which will cause the Auto Center during the flip to rotate the camera:

You’ll also need to recalibrate your guider (maybe) I think PHD2 can also connect to your rotator and potentially flip things based on the rotator angle.



thanks I’ll try that. DOH - seemed to always sort on frame number. So I’ll add more data.


thanks Jared - without flats - I think it might be teh better way to go for me.
I tried to read what that was for but didn’t quite get it.
Anyone using a rotator - I’d love to see a photo of your wires!?!?!


Here’s mine. The bundle is somewhat cutoff but you can see both anchor points.


Jered, looks clean… nice. so far I can’t seem to keep it clean but allow enough slack to have it do it’s job. Should the rotator move only 180 from the 12 o’clock direction? left or right? or 360 to the left?
Mine’s a bit of a slop house.
I think I need to route the cables down the top at 12 o’clock and slack enough to go 180 either way.
I also like your computer snake cable. (whats that called?) vs my rather stiff plastic stuff. I may have to get some of that mesh stuff for more flexibility.



I think it’s called braided cable sleeve

You can pick it up at most computer stores that sell components. It is often used in custom PCs to clean up the wiring. It’s also fairly flexible as well. Works well.

You’ll probably need more slack than that. I just rotated my rotator around about 200 degrees on each side and then added a little more for good measure.



Will do - I ordered that in .5 inch and .75 inch. The darn lodestar is sticking out and spinning around that doesn’t help matters. I’ll see what I can do - I just installed the rotator and wanted it to work first. Now I can work on cleaning up the install.

You know you guys should really do some video instruction videos for youtube showing actual usage of SGP. I’ve ignored the framing wizard until now and it’s really an awesome feature. I think there would be far less of us asking refundant questions if there were videos.

All my problems have been solved I think - other than - last night again… I was doing my first sub download and it said downloading (forever). Rare but it happens from time to time. Once someone told me to wait 15 seconds for an aborted plate solve that really helped with my seemingly crashing problem. It’s been performing really well.

Here’s my mosaic plan. Framing is a real eye opener… well worth the upgrade price we paid when it was included.


There are a handful out there. One by me and some others by our users:

And yes, I’ve always wanted to do some more videos…they just take an obscene amount of time. A 5 minute video is like a 5+ hour endeavor. What I would like to do are some “Live Imaging” that way people can ask questions and such in real time.



@Jared Based on the picture it looks like you are using a split cable sleeve like this:

The one you referenced could be a real pain to route cables.


Hi Ron,

I have been using the Pyxis rotator for a couple of years now and it has always worked very well for me. I use both the wire loom similar to what DesertSky pointed out. I also use lots of Velcro. The way I have it wired I haven’t had any issues with cabling. Below are a few pictures. What has happen to me in the past, and I do now check every time before I power up the rotator, I ensure all of the connections in the imaging train are tight. I found due to the rotator those M42 threads seem to work loose every once in a while.

Also, in the Target Settings of SGP I always using the Rotate Camera to and keep the +/-180 Degrees. This way I only need to take one set of flats. I let either Deep Sky Stacker or PixInsight do the rotating of the images when doing the processing work for stacking


In my images is showing the rotator in the “0” position. when I power on the rotator it rotates counter clockwise 180 degrees, finds home then returns back to the “0” position.

Hope this helps.



I ordered some of that woven cable wrap. .75 inch - Hoping that will work.

here’s my mosaic plan. the blue was the first shot, then I planned the mosaic after.


MARK! thanks for the photos - I have some of that mesh loom coming from amazon. The rear view photo helps. I see you have all 3 moving items bundled together.
I did a rework yesterday and pulled all my controllers and power runner off the top of the 80mm. Placed it in the middle of the two side by side scopes.

Not having my loom yet I let the rotator cords dangle. Today I wake up and see one must have snagged my CP4 (AP control box) and pivoted it upward).

I’ll try velcro until the mesh loom arrives. THANKS FOR SHARING.

I’m remote out 300 ft in the front yard. I can’t really inspect before powering up. (other than via IP camera). so I need to really trust what ever I do.