Anyone Using ASTAP for Plate Solving in SGP?

This is very thought provoking … As a real newbie trying to learn the ropes, I may have been overthinking this.

Are you suggesting that I can forgo CPWI altogether? Just start with the scope at its index position, complete a quality polar alignment using the PoleMaster, and then go right to SGP?

I admit, I have been worried about having CPWI tracking, while SGP is also making adjustments to keep my target centered.

Right now I have no guide scope, but I have one on order, and plan to add PHD2 to the mix.

Thank you

I installed it at the weekend - used it in anger last night

my 2cents worth - knocks spots off PS2 and is my new goto for platesolving

installed it and the G16 dbase off the install links on my Eagle 2 - v impressed with it

Yep :grinning:

I also use AVX with polemaster.
My first step after PA is solve and sync with SGP and ASTAP. This gives me a very precise Goto. It takes normally not more than 3 runs to Center the target within less than 15 pixels and under 1 degree of rotation( i use the Pyxis rotator). No other Software needed. ASTAP works better than PS2.

I just started using ASTAP, after being very happy with Plate Solve 2 for the last few years. ASTAP is much, much faster for me than Plate Solve 2. The solves while centering on the target were done in just 3 seconds. Really impressed!

Hello Astrometz,

This may be a silly, newbie question, but do you first have to shoot an image to solve, or will the “Solve & Sync” button do the whole process (shoot image, plate solve & then sync)?

Also, I think some of my issues are related to the quality of the images I am getting for plate solving. I use a Canon 70D @ 1600 ISO and have tried 20-30 second exposures. I have an CLS filter in the EOS to help with all the light pollution (I shoot from my backyard in a Bortle 6 location). Any suggestions on exposure?



Hi Richard, there is no silly question, just silly answers.

  1. In SGP the Sync procedure is a „ Fire and forget“ thing, or, like Kodak said: you press the button, we do the rest. No prior picture needed. Just press „solve and sync“ with your exposure parameters.
  2. usually, I take pictures with a ASI 1600 or 183 camera. At unity gain, a 5 s exposure will work fine.
    I also have a Canon 1100 Da. Haven’t used it for a while, but I guess, at 1600 ASA , a 5 sec exposure will also be enough. As long, as there are sufficient sharp stars on the picture , it should be okay. 20 sec, in my opinion, is way too much. But!: It all depends on your f-stop value: my scopes vary between 2.8 and 8. Hope I could help.
    Clear skies, Ulrich