Should the smart focus be used or disabled. I’m also getting a OS RH-200 and wasn’t sure if the recommendation to disable applies. In fact, I’m not sure what smart focus does…
I have an RH200 with 2" Feathertouch and HSM and they work very well if your scope is well collimated and tilt is negligible. If that’s not the case then results won’t necessarily be as good as you expect.
One thing to note is that your focus motor needs to have enough resolution because the CFZ is quite narrow.
You won’t be disappointed with the scope, it’s excellent.
+1 on the collimation. My 10-inch RCT is difficult to focus period if the collimation is not spot on. This is due to the fact that the star is not being rendered as a uniform blob - but as a weird shape as it approaches focus.
I’m getting the RH250 and it has a long back focus. I am pairing it with the Gemini focuser/rotator which is a massive unit. I think it was built for NASA. It has over 200,000 steps in 12mm so sub micron motion Apparently the secondary never needs touching so it’s down to three screws, a laser and the tilt plate. Wondering if I need CCDInspector now. Anyone using the Howie G on this?
I use PI often. Would you share your technique of squaring the primary using PixInsight? I was told by others that the main concern is fine tuning the tilt/tip plate after the primary is collimated.
Sure try Script> Image analysis> FWHMeccentricty.
Select and image and hit measure and then support. It gives you a map of the elongation errors in the image.
Graph is not a cool as inspector but it works for me.
Max